I call it Saturday...

A weekly blog about the fresh, local food each Saturday at the Union Square Farmer's Market in NYC and my subsequent moments of culinary triumph and failure.

Sunday, December 10, 2006

Silly Names...

Following is one of my favorite recipes, based on a dish that Greg had at Taralucci e Vino on East 18th Street. This time around only one of the five ingredients is from the market, but it packs such a punch that the dish wouldn't exist without it.

Pasta with Grilled Raddiccio and Speck

three small heads of raddiccio - Northshire Farms
Egg Fettucine (can be any pasta really, but we like something heartier than plain old spaghetti)
.25 lbs of speck (smoked, cured northern Italian ham)
olive oil
locatelli romano

Put water on to boil for pasta. Heat a stovetop grill pan lightly brushed with olive oil until not quite smoking. Wash, dry and quarter the raddiccio, leaving core in bottom so the head retains it shape. Place the quarters on the grill pan cut side down. Once browned, turn to other cut side and leave until browned as well and leaves are fork tender. Remove from grill and allow to cool on a chopping board. Place slices of speck on the grill pan and cook on each side until desired firmness is achieved. I like mine quite crisp. Remove to cutting board as well.

Put pasta in to boil. In the meantime, core the raddiccio and cut into bitesize (1/2 to 1 inch) pieces and place in a large pasta bowl to catch the juices. Chop the speck and add to raddiccio. Shave curls of locatelli romano onto the herb/ham mixture. By now, the pasta should be finished. Drain, return to cooking pot, add the toppings (reserving about 1/4 cup) and toss until well mixed. If the pasta seems too dry, drizzle with a bit of olive oil. Odds are, the speck will have enough seasoning to flavor the entire dish, but if necessary add salt and pepper as needed. Return to pasta bowl for serving and garnish with reserved r/s and shavings of cheese.

It's a fantastic dish! The bitterness of the raddiccio is balanced by the richness of the ham and cheese. The peppery smokiness of the speck vs. regular prosciutto adds another level of flavor. Pair this with a red from the Alto Aldige region of Italy and you can't go wrong.

Like most dishes, this has infinite variations: The Taralucci e Vino version had tiny pieces of raddiccio and speck scattered throughout and included some heavy cream--the overall effect being more refined and the really strong flavors subdued. I prefer the more robust version with larger pieces and without the mellowing aspect of the cream so that each bite has a new and distinct flavor combination. I've also made this dish adding grilled onions, however in this instance, my speck was incredible so I felt another ingredient would only detract.

5 Comments:

At 12:24 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great. I am now famished, and it's not even 9:30 on a dreary Monday morning.

This dish sounds incredible!

 
At 1:51 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Yeah, it's pretty much fantastic. You could make it veggie too doing only raddiccio and onions, but you'd still have the cheese/pasta issue. Is it all lactose or just cow's milk? In a weird twist, Greg's sister is bothered by butter and any cheese that is NOT cow's milk.

 
At 3:47 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

that's odd. I myself seem to be unable to digest duck eggs. I usually end up on my hands and knees with terrible, gut-wrenching pain.

He avoids all dairy. And meat. And wheat. But I don't!

 
At 5:09 PM, Blogger Tina said...

duck eggs? how often have you had the opportunity to eat duck eggs?

 
At 6:46 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

My former landlord used to buy them surprisingly often. I could never tell why, or where he got them. So I've maybe had them five or ten times. He'd try to sneak them into things when baking and they always had the same disabling effect on me.

 

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